enaon

It is taking more time that I exprected to move to version 0.5, I started cleaning up the code and I had to change a lot The result is nice I think, bridge mode, cleaner look, more settings, even more stable, cleaner connections, support for dsd6 in-helmet visual/sound feedback, I will upload soon and it will have a mode that auto scans the i2c bus for you to test.

It is even worse on three s18's I have worked on. They were all machined, but the distance between the right and left sliders, is not the same top to botton when the wheel is in place, I think the spacers are thicker that they should, I am not sure. I didn't measure it, I concude it becaue of the action needed after trial and error to make the system fluid. In all three wheels, batch 2 and 3, I had to add shims to the the axle as I whould if the sliders where not perfectly paralleled. This image ilustrates one of the axles(*), the same is on the other side, thus I did not really changed anything on the axle angle, I only accomodated for not parallel surface mounting, and that can only be caused by the wheel introducing more space at the bottom when in place. this needs a lot of trial and error as results can only be observed when bolts are fully tightened, but I will upload a video for reference of the sliders movement one can exprect if done right. (*) those are 2cm long shimps, 0.15 mm for the first one, 0.2 mm the next two, I had to use 3 of them on each side to make a progresive angle on this s18, others only needed 2. this makes makes all the difference from a fully blocked slider side, to a completelly fluid one.

An angle should be best, the only problem I see is that letting the wheel go back to acomodate for the bumb, will move the center of gravity forward. The s18 design needs precision on implementation, if done the kingsong way one or more of the tubes will bend and cause friction when the axle bolts are fully tightened, causing the suspension system to "fluctuate" when going over bumbs, turning and so on. But I do not possess the language skills to explain the way to solve it in english, this is why I asked you help, so that the s18 will go down in history as an implementation faii, not a design one I will be following you amazing work on the suspension exoskeleton.

Bonjour à tous, Je suis un fan grec d'une roue et un fan de personnalisation. Ceci est ma version KS S18xl

amazing job, I wish I could get you to change your mind about this statement, so you can help others. The sliders on my s18 are as smooth as silk, small bumps are equal to v11 system, all a had to do was to compensate with shims each side of the axle grabbers( it took 4 days of trial end error to understand the problem), the surface is not vertical, tenths of a milimeter make a big difference when you tighten the screws, if forces the sliders to bent and indroduce friction if not alligned. But it can be fixed and the s18 becomes a dream of a suspension system, I can demonstrate mine if you want with the shock disengaged so that you can see how smooth the sliders are, if I have it on the side a small tilt will move the hole system. Sory about the engish post and the s18, but I did it besause you seem like you will understand the problem and be able to explain it to others.

thank you for testing, so it seems yours is the variant that uses a different touch. I will prepere a debug version so that we can figure it out.

Not all nrf52832 is easy, a way to hack it is importand, but the one you posted is the p22, it is supported since yesterday. 😁 https://github.com/enaon/eucWatch/issues/9 So yes, an espruino image for p22 is ready and support is ok for one variant, I think there are more, but that will be solved with time. Just use the p8 guide. Also, a new espruino image for the p8 is up, I think battery got even better, and uploads are now twice as fast, I suggest to all to upgrade only step4 using daflasher. @bugatti45 I will look closer what may cause this and will report back. ps. the bridge is ready, I am now testng it and will upload, maybe tommorow.

Hello, this dash looks like a mistake, the "B 'symbol is not displayed in kingsong wheels, a number with the real variable speed limit is shown instead, like so: Please try the following: 1.Go to the garage page, long hold on the wheel, and then long hold on delete, to delete the entry. 2. Do an up-gesture to go to settings, then info icon, then press on the restart button to restart the watch. 3. Add the wheel again. (by long hold the side button, or long hold on an empty garage slot) If this does not help (the 'B "symbol still shows up), then please do a install again from the loader.

Pour connecter/déconnecter il suffit d'appuyer longuement sur le bouton latéral, la dernière roue sélectionnée dans le garage sera utilisée. Les messages "far" / "lost" fonctionnent ainsi : Si l'on ne termine pas la séance à la roue, mais s'en éloigne, la montre ne pourra pas se connecter mais pourra tout de même scanner la roue. Ceci est indiqué comme "far" sur l'écran, et la montre essaiera de se reconnecter silencieusement toutes les secondes. Si l'on s'éloigne encore plus ou que les roues s'éteignent, la montre ne pourra pas rechercher la roue, affichera "lost" et alertera avec un buzz toutes les cinq secondes, jusqu'à la fin de la session par un appui long sur le bouton latéral.

it will need some adjastments, but that is just a a file and some time, it is the easy part. The screen driver etc are more advanced, we will again need a lot of pieces for the pazzle, I think this is for later, after the summer. For now the p8 seems to be ok, I got 3 more in the mail since it was reported that they were incompatible, all of them were ok, so maybe if one wants a watch now, he can still give the p8 a try.

we will see, maybe it is an analog sensor, but as it stands it is a single button board.

this is the same as the magic 3, same board, and I think I recall atc1441 saying it was a one button watch, no matter the markings on the case.

this is totally irrelevant to the watch, but I wanted to share my joy, and pay tribute to smallexis, a French user who gave me inspiration years ago to start placing batteries inside the frame. Anyways, this is my new s18xl 😁 I added two custom made packs inside the plastic frame, and modded it to make it wider, it looks better that before I think, more aggressive. Very time consuming mod and needs attension to details, but if one is really interested I could post pictures.

yes this the watch atc1441 is working on, next gen family, if/when it happens the software will be very fast, instant. I think it is single button, just design,

Are you sure part 1 was successful with the correct file? If so, place the watch on the charger, scan for it from daflaher and write here if you see it as "p8xxx" or "atcdfu" or "dfutarg"

Do you get a B on a kingsong ks16 wheel? Set again the limits of 40/45 to more appropriate numbers using the watch, and please tell me if the buzzing stopped.

the autonomy is very good I think, it is just the screen-on that takes a lot of power, It can be connected to the wheel continually for about 3 days when the screeen is of. The way I use it, I have the screen always-on when over 35kmh, and the watch lasts for more that 4 days of casual EUC usage. there is also the option of dk08, it has an always on memory transflective screen, like the bip, but the bt signal is a bit weaker, and the hack procedure is a bit more difficult.

If step one was successful, then maybe reboot the phone and try the steps 2-4 again.

Do you get a red block here, and if so, what is the number inside? This most probably happens because the ks16 has a speed limit lower than 45. Go to the wheel alarms menu, and set your tilt back speed at a reasonable number, it should be ok after that. ps. there is a watch alarm that you cannot turn off (the one we are talking about) , it vibrates when the KS is under conditions that force it to lower the actual speed limit under the one you have set in the tilt back. I will change that to be dynamic because as it stands it gets annoying when battery is low.

maybe I spoke too soon for the p8 being incompatible. Three p8 arrived today, all from different Polish aliexpress stores, all ton5 and working fine. So till now, only the UTELITE store from aliexpress seems to ship the incompatible p8 version.

Thanks for the review The horn on the ks is working like so: When you press the button, the watch will send the "lock" command that makes the wheel beep continually because it is moving, and will also send the "strobe lights" command when after 7pm I think. When you release the button, the watch will cancel the lock and return the lights to the previous state, so it is not really 4 fixed beeps, it will beep (and strobe the lights) as long as you are pressing the button.

the one time procedure to make it visible is here, make also sure the gb icon is enabled in the watch bt settings menu. https://github.com/enaon/eucWatch/issues/6

this is usefull and I forgot, I will add it.

also, daflasher is now back on playstore https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.atcnetz.paatc.patc

A user from the US forum got a p8 that reported GAM3 in the about screen. ATC1441 looked it up, and it is not an NRF52xx chipset anymore. so this is the end of the p8 as a hackable watch. for now the safest bet if one wants a watch is the p22, the same as the p8, only 1.3 screen instead of the 1.4 on the p8.