KS69

Sold

Buy my used 18L ...thats less struggle

Hey Folks, selling my matte black 18L with big pedals! Latest Version with more stable trolley and better Lights! Included: 18L 1700km technical top notch, usual scratches on pedals and Body, but Nothing real major About 25Full battery cycles, thats Nothing in a battery life Standard charger XL big black pedals Spare normal pedals Spare brandnew 18l/XL mainboard Price asked is 1100 Euro incl. Transport in Europe!!! Reason for sale is as Always...Need for Money and/or buying other wheels Interests please contact me by PM! MERCI! EDIT: Forgot to Mention, Wheel is placed in Germany, near Cologne, can also be picked up. Btw.: This advertisement can also be seen on the english EUC Forum under my username "US69", as KS rep ...there i have "a few" more Posts and i am better known there ?

I also have this mudguard for my Monster, send from Matthias/EUC Guy! it really does a good Job :-)

It's 2,5" like all KS18 have been...

This time the 50kmh lock is automatical unlocked after 200km.

Just a Photo of my sale: Allready sold...merci!

Bonjours, please excuse me for writing in english, but if i would use a Translation automatic, i would have no clue what is Standing here.... I am selling my Tesla, for more informations, please look here: http://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/9286-gotway-tesla-1020wh-450km-25-months-new/?tab=comments#comment-139409 The wheel/Me am living in Ruhr valley in Germany, between Düsseldorf, Dortmund, Essen. Personal pickup would always be prefered, but sending the wheel by insured package should also work. Costs will go for the buyer, then. Contact by PM always possible or ask questions here. Have a nice day KS69 PS: I hope i am in the correct Sub-Forum and did not break any other rules be selling a EUC...otherwise, please excuse me and feel free to delete!

Bonjour! What motherboard version does this KS16 have? (You can see it neear the big capacitors!) That fuse looks worse....is anything else destroyed? The wires of the capacitors perhaps? (big brown resistor) When the fuse is destroyed in such a bad way....for sure there is another problem, as the fuse only pops if something else goes wrong. Hopefully you will receive an new board!

@Techos78 btw: A Fantastic Price for a 840wh pack with Sanyo GA cells ! Does it come over the netherlands. so without any custom Problems?

I guess you are right, in case of BMS failure 2 independant packs might be more secure :-) Question of the new 840wh pack is how much amps the BMS is configured to. And that's the most important: It works! Good Job, also seen your Shell modification :-) Yip, the 18S is very nice structured...3 packs in parallel, each one secured by a 40Amp fuse, and 2x30Amp on the board to secure board and the complete battery Setup.

Yes, you are absolutly correct...that is a "Problem" of all cascade KS18A.... I just wanted to ask, and i am sure you are a lot more experienced than me. When your new pack has no "return-diode"...why didn't you use that as the one feeding the Motherboard?

@Techos78 Wow, nice Job :-) The 2 of 340wh packs....are this orginal KS Batterie packs, which before your modification have been connected to the chargeport? If Yes...this KS batterys/BMS normally have a "reverse protection", so that on the Charge port side no short can happen.... What this means with your Installation now, is that when "braking" (recuperation) happening, you only go and fill up the 2 x 340wh packs while recuperation, but not the big 820wh pack. Because the "reverse protection" does not allow to flow back Energie to the 820wh pack.... Or have you modified the BMS of the 340's pack?

It is a 512wh pack with 2 x 20s (2 x 256wh), and No, the nickel Strip, cheap or not, was used to connect the 2 of the 20 packs, serialized or parallized, complete current of the 2p20s running through this one strip. And as i am myself just a consument like anyone else, i have no interest in GW misfortune, i just have received a new Tesla last week, so why should i have an interest in that? But when a misdesign like that comes to light, all Mten3 owners should be warned, at least this is my view!

I can only say attention to all MTen3 users...that really is a big design fault, to parallel the 2 20s packs by a cheap nickel strip. Even makes me worry about the Tesla, which „only“ operates with 4 parallel systems instead of the 6p on v3s+ or acm, but Tesla having even much more power available then those wheels. Who knows, perhaps the crash of the Taiwan guy was the first short caused by the melted strip of one of his battery pack? Will this ever stop, Hotway??

http://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/8821-help-a-newbie-decide-and-get-going/?do=findComment&comment=129956

Holla, my wheel was produced at about 20th October and when i received it and opened it up, Gotway allready corrected the issue with the Plastik rim around the magnet, which CAN pinch the Motor cable...(i exspect that only to happen after a Crash on the side or something similiar pressure). How did they correct the issue? Hmmh, i heared and saw a new side Panel on photos....but on my wheel (and some others) they just cut down the Plastik rim of the magnet, so that it is shorter, and cannot pinch the cable anymore.... They cut (or even melted) this Plastik down by Hand...so that Looks definitly like GW Quality (ironic) ;-) But hey, this is such a minor Problem that i even wonder that they produced new sidepads for that..... The inside of the wheel Looks Kind of better...thicker axle, thicker Motor wires....but still the same crappy board look, with this stupid 12 Mosfet Arrangement, which is electrical nonsense. Throwing 6 Mosfets of real Quality in it like the IRFP 4368 would do the trick much better. The american seller released some statistics ...stating Gotway boards/mosfets fail from 3-5% (some models even more), while not one mosfet fault is known on the KS "S" series until today.... Seeing that this mosfets are just "Cent" articles i really dont get it..... But again: Fantastic drive behaviour on the Tesla...i am tottaly stunned

I now have my Tesla 1020wh for a week, allready have opened it up and checked everything and in General i would say GW Quality has become a Little better. God knows what happens to this poor Guy in Taiwan and why his wheel shut off, we just dont know enough to get to "hysteric" about it. I have about 120km in this week now, my aboslut max Speed was a bit over 40kmh, and on this 120km i drove it over several bumps and what not. No Problems at all. Gotway finally, finally managed to come back to a superious ROck hard pedal Setting, which i did not experience on any other wheel before. It is even a bit harder as on my KS18S....and this allready isrockhard. The Tesla is super agile, drives super smooth and what not. And when i say this...i would say this means something, as i am definitly no Gotway Fanboy. In fact i hate them for their bad Quality issues and bad communication about those faults...... While i still dont get it why they have this bad mosfet type on the Tesla board, same as ACM/Msuper, other than that the Tesla is a hell of a wheel.

Would be interesting if he solds the wheel to France! 1Radwerkstatt himself is a "exclusive" seller for Germany, so he knows quit good he would be "not allowed" to deliver to France....as he also suffers from "imports" and does not like that. But who knows :-) I just paid about 2/3 of that 2k....and that's still possible.

And what i also can say: I opened up my new Tesla and the Motor wires are now (like KS18S) also "one fat strand" for each Motor Phase. And much ticker than before on ACM/Msuper. So even Gotway learns from faults :-)

Sorry, if this has mentioned before: Tesla lightmodes: On my Tesla i found 2 different Lightmodes: Mode1. Generel Fast Rotating Lights, when braking the complete Lightring is switching to soft Red. Battery is displayed on max 8 LED's on top, only when Standing still Mode2. NO Rotating Lights, when braking the back of the Lighring is bright Red. (Very good visible) Battery is displayed while driving, and always on. You Switch through the Mode by short pressing on Powerbutton: Power On/1.Press-> Mode1 No Frontlight 2. Press-> Mode 1 with Frontlight 3.Press-> Mode1 with flash Frontlight 4.Press-> Mode2 No Frontlight 5. Press-> Mode 2 with Frontlight 6.Press-> Mode2 with flash Frontlight Perhaps that helps... So for fans of fancy light modes: the Lightring is only doing one rotating...not 3 different modes like on KS14/16 and no colorchange. Thats a bit weak in my opinion...but i dont Need it anyway

Aaaah, Merci....that's really weird!! I never heard of something like that before, and i would also very strongly suspect a Motherboard defect! Perhaps something is loose, so that through a small bump a Connection got lost. When "only" the pedals get weak for a Moment i would suspect a capaciter Problem...when it really "shuts-off"? I have no clue :-(

Holla @Fitz0uille First: I wish you a good and fast recover from the fall.... What i dont understand ...did the wheel Cutout? Or did you have the fall because of the road bump and the wheel still worked? If the wheel completly cutout, that would be the absolutly first time that i hear of a "S" series wheel doing that....and if so i would suspect somethings defect on the wheel! On "minor" road imperfections a cutout should not happen, and when i read your post correctly, you had some Problems like that before?

Hopefully i will receive my Tesla soon. Since 20th Oct i have the tracking number....i will report then. I have seen other Tesla drivers report, that there is a break red light option...and i also recognized on one of your videos, the lights where buggy. so we will see.... :-)

I would be happy to have mine on the 3rd.....but i doubt that for me. my other 4wheels only one made it in such a time, all others were a bit longer.